UROS, THE REED ISLANDS ON LAKE TITIKAKA

Orient Expresses Andean Explorer
         Over the top of the Andes in style.

 

We were starting our 10 hour rail journey on the Andean Explorer from Cusco to Puno on the shore of Lake Titikaka.  We arrived at the station and were ushered into a waiting room resembling  a hotel lobby.  We were greeted by a live band and folkloric dancers.  Go ahead pamper me....

 

 

The train was posh indeed, with wing back chairs and real linen table cloths on which was placed a elegantly presented 3 course lunch.

 

 

The train also had a lounge car and ......

 

 

At the end of the train was a partial enclosed observation car, a fun place to watch the passing scenery.

 

 

The Andes snow covered mountains provided a backdrop for our first glimpse of the Llama and Alpaca herds.

 

 

We went up to Puno on the train and returned to Cusco on the bus and both ways I was surprised at the abundance of family farms and the absence of unused land.

 

 

The highest elevation of 15,000 ft above sea level is at the small village of El Raya.

As the train approached,  the vendors  rushed about to set up their booths. At El Raya we were offered our only chance to get off the train. At 15,000 feet  Ron celebrated being able to move at altitude by promptly buying matching Lama sweater for both of us.  Accuweather.com was predicting 40 degree weather so the sweaters and the knitted Inca hat Ron bought in Cusco should keep us warm, if not fashionable.

 

 

It was dark by the time we were dropped off at our hotel. Again we choose to be right on the Plaza de Armas.  The balconies on the left are off our rooms on the 3rd floor.  I must take a minute to celebrate....yea!...  elevators for the first time .... We tried hard to book only "charming " hotels which until now translated into "no elevator" hotels.  At nearly 12,000 ft. to not lug luggage up 3 flights is a blessing.  I guess since this trip is the high part of our trip in elevation at least, I can safely say that at least for the 6 of us the prescription for altitude medication has worked.  We have huffed and puffed up and down hills and stairs, but none of us required the extra oxygen all hotels trains and buses carry.

 

Walking on Islands of reeds.

 

 

This water way was busy with boat loads of tourist in the channel out to Isla Los Uros Islands.  A group of 64 islands made by hand and grouped to form a community.  The islands have their own school, church and hospital.

 

 

 This greeting station is the first stop into the floating islands.  Our guide is given the name of the Island who will be hosting us today.

 

 

The ladies were waiting to greet us to their homes on the island Summa Willjta.  They represent all the women on the small island made of reeds, which I would guess are about 1/2 acre.

 

 

We were given a very interesting demonstration on the building and maintaining of the islands.  Most islands are similar to family compounds, but they don't have to be.  Anyone can start their own island or live on any island, although I suspect you have to get permission to move to someones island.  This island's base of reeds is eight feet deep and is anchored in water that is 45 feet deep.

 

 

 

The risk of fire is great, so all cooking on the island must be done on this community stove.

 

 

Most of the ladies of the islands wore their hair in braids decorated with these unusual tassels.

 

 

Each of us were invited to visit the home of one of the ladies.  Each lady makes textiles for sale telling the story of their family.  We all ending up buying one from our hostess.

 

 

The ladies dress was colorful and distinct to their part of Peru.

 

 

Currently there is one baby on the island, do you think he is spoiled?

 

 

This young lady was Helen and Skips hostess.  She is the mother of the baby. Helen said she was very proud to show off her tidy home to them.  Mercedes hosted Ron and I.  She did not seem to have the same pride in her home, so I choose not to take pictures of her house or yard.  I guess on the islands as elsewhere in the world there are tidy people and some not so tidy people.

 

 

The end to our visit was a cruise around the islands on this reed boat.

 

 

The old reed boats would only last 6 months, but today they are filling the pontoons with as many as 3,000 plastic bottles and the use nylon lashing has replaced reed lashing.  These improvements have increased the life of the boat to 3 years.

 

 

 

We had a delightful time on the floating islands.  I have wanted to visit since I first read about them in a 5th grade geography text book.  The islands of those geography test book were a real and hard way of life.  Today, generations later these islands are definitely more tourist geared than subsistence geared.   Tourism puts bread on their table, so better preserve the ancient ways for  tourists like me than let their heritage fade away.